"An apple a day keeps the doctor away"
- Benjamin Franklin
Yes, this great figure in US History was a devoted food and wine lover.
Joseph-Siffrède Duplessis (French, 1725-1802) | The Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.
Ben Franklin was born in the British colony of Boston, Massachusetts on January 17, 1706. Even at a very young age, he was a brilliant and enterprising boy. After a tragic drowning of a family that lived in the first lighthouse in Boston, Ben (age 12) wrote a ballad about the events called ' The Lighthouse Tragedy'. He had the song printed on handbills and sold on the streets of Boston, to much success. This was an early glimpse of the man that would go on to own a newspaper, invent bifocal glasses, swim fins, and the Franklin stove as well as sail a kite through a thunderstorm to confirm that lightning was a form of electricity. Not to mention being one of the founding fathers of the United States. I could go on and on about the marks he left in history, however, I am a food history blogger so of course I am going to focus on what were his contributions to food. And boy, there were many.
At the age of 16, Ben read a book from Tyron that recommended a vegetable diet. It would be at that time that he would became a vegetarian. Ben would prep and cook his own meals, which often consisted of potatoes, bread, rice, and hasty pudding. Ben ate so many potatoes that his influence made the vegetable mainstream. The French deemed this root veggie poisonous (which is ironic, considering that we now call fried potatoes in the US, French fries). This prompted him to become an advocate for all foods from the colonies, and he often wrote of the New World’s fantastic edible offerings which included the quintessential New England classics like cranberries and maple syrup. Ben enjoyed cranberries so much that he would often have his wife, Deborah, ship boxes of the berries to him when he traveled throughout England and France. He sent her a note after one such shipment in 1770, "thanks for the cranberries. I am as ever Your affectionate Husband B Franklin". Though he would give up being a vegetarian a few years later after a boat trip from Boston to Philadelphia, fish was the culprit, he continued to look for non meat like alternatives throughout the rest of his life. Most claims state that Good ol’ Ben was responsible for introducing tofu to the colonies, around 1770, though he described it as a type of cheese from China and called it Tau-fu.
Ben would continue to expose Americans to world foods, like parmesan cheese (1769), ginseng (c1738), Rhubarb (c1770), and Scotch kale (c1773). Parmesan cheese was a favorite of the statesman. He enjoyed the flavor so much that he would spend the next four years writing to a parmesan cheese maker in Italy to persuade him to provide Ben with the directions on how to make this aged cheese. The cheese caught on very quickly in the colonies. In 1789, Frederick Nutt would pen the cookbook ' The Complete Confectioner' which has a recipe for the cheese and another equally popular new food, ice cream. yes, parmesan ice cream was a desired dessert.
When he did eat meat he enjoyed turkey, so much so he pushed for this to be the symbol of the United States. Second president Thomas Jefferson overruled him and named the Bald Eagle as the national symbol. Ben was so upset about the selection that he used his publication 'The Poor Richard's Almanac' to get out a dig to Jefferson. Ben penned the nickname of the turkey as "Tom Turkey" as a reference to Jefferson. This remains a commonly used nickname when describing live turkeys. On December 23, 1750, long before the national symbol discussion took place, Ben attempted to electrocute a holiday turkey believing it would make the meat more tender, instead he shocked himself. He wrote ”I have lately made an Experiment in Electricity that I desire never to repeat. Two nights ago being about to kill a Turkey by the Shock from two large Glass Jarrs containing as much electrical fire as forty common Phials, I inadvertently took the whole thro' my own Arms and Body.” In hind site, it is a wonder that he continued to support the turkey but you must appreciate that he stuck to his convictions.
Over the years, Ben would not shy away from endlessly recommending moderation in eating: “Be temperate in Wine, in eating, Girls, and Sloth, or the Gout will sieze you and plague you both” (Poor Richard’s Almanack, 1734). Though interesting, it would be Ben who never stopped eating his favorite foods and drinking copious amounts of wine, with very little exercise, all while knowing it would directly cause him pain. Gout would trouble Ben throughout much of his life, starting in 1750, but in pure Ben style he wrote a humorous little story in 1780 titled Dialogue Between Franklin and the Gout.
FRANKLIN: Eh! oh! eh! What have I done to merit these cruel sufferings?
THE GOUT: Many things; you have ate and drank too freely, and too much indulged those legs of yours in their indolence.
FRANKLIN: Who is it that accuses me?
THE GOUT: It is I, even I, the Gout.
FRANKLIN: What! my enemy in person?
THE GOUT: [. . .] While the mornings are long, and you have leisure to go abroad, what do you do? Why, instead of gaining an appetite for breakfast, by salutary exercise, you amuse yourself with books, pamphlets, or newspapers, which commonly are not worth the reading. Yet you eat an inordinate breakfast, four dishes of tea, with cream, and one or two buttered toasts, with slices of hung beef, which I fancy are not things the most easily digested. Immediately afterwards you sit down to write at your desk, or converse with persons who apply to you on business. Thus the time passes till one, without any kind of bodily exercise.
When creating this recipe, I was inspired by Ben's love of potatoes, cranberries and maple syrup. I may have also selected cranberries because they can fight off the gout. Enjoy.